26.12.05

boxing day

and so... i am back. since exactly one week ago, i have been on north american terrain. for the past seven days i've been accidentally falling asleep at seemingly inappropriate times, remaining stubbornly awake until not-so-early hours of the morning, re-acclimating to sub-zero temperatures, snow, sleet, slush, rain, etc. and thinking about how much i'd like to travel back to india.

i wasn't sure that 3 and a half weeks would be long enough to get used to the noise, to the smells, to the tastes and language and customs. in many ways, it wasn't - particularly because the NCBS campus is in no way characteristically "India". but through the people i met, and the foods i ate. through some of the places i had a chance to see. through these things, i think i've caught a glimpse of Bangalore, of Karnataka, and of India. i was sad to leave. this just means i will have to return.

belated merry christmas, and happy holidays. i'll resume my north american narrative after a few more days of turkey sandwiches.

15.12.05

india: almost over (25)

it is very very early on a friday morning, and i'm realizing that within 72 hours I will be packed and ready to head back to Canada... the past 3 weeks have flown by. i'm trying to cram much work and fun into my last 3 days. briefly, to summarize this past week: i gave a talk for the neurobiology journal club group on monday, and spent quite a few hours on the microscope. travelled on tuesday (see photo post below). screening and quantifying slides all day wednesday, and then headed downtown to shop and have a North Indian meal. i bought an incredible silk hand-embroidered dupatta (which is the long scarf/shawl most women wear draped over the shoulders). i also bought 2 short kurtas (which are chemise type garments.. think Old Navy summer 2005: everybody in tunics). one is plain orange, to wear for my next day trip on saturday. the other is bright coral with gold detail around the neck and hem. i'm thinking of going back to this store on the weekend to pick up a few more - they are cheap and comfy. today i spent the whole day on the microscope, and tomorrow will be the same. although i think we may be heading out to see a movie if all goes well. now, time to brave the bat-path and get some sleep back at the hostel.

india: tuesday photos (24)

as promised, got my photos from my tuesday trip posted. the photos below link to the albums.



12.12.05

india: tuesday trip (23)

going to see temples at Belur and Halebidu and a very large statue at Shravanabelagola tomorrow. leaving in the morning, very early. will post photos as soon as i get back tomorrow night, very late.

india: pickles i've tried (22)

listed in order from best to slightly less best, but still really good.

1) lime
2) mango
3) black pepper

lime pickle has WHOLE limes, with the peel still on. you just eat the whole thing. incredibly delicious - a cross between sour and vinegar and spice and savoury. the mango pickle contained whole chunks of fresh mango, treated in the same way. you take the chunk of mango and eat the flesh off from the skin. black pepper pickle was fresh black pepper corns floating in a pickling vinegar liquid. surprisingly not spicy, just pure peppery vinegary.

india: RR (21)

i had THE BEST meal of the trip yet (i know, i keep saying that.. but it keeps being true) on saturday night at a place called RR. it was on Church Street, just off Brigade Road. wow; i can even remember addresses now! it seems everyone was worried about me going to eat here because they serve Andhra food (i.e., the cuisine of neighbouring state Andhra Pradesh), which is particularly spicy. given the fact that i have not found any of the food here particularly spicy, and the fact that i managed to eat a whole bowl of veg curry at lunch out with the lab that other native Indian grad students found too spicy, i was granted the opportunity to try this place.

instead of plates, you eat your meal off a real banana leaf. they have them folded on every table, and then when you sit down the waiters unfold it for you - rather than laying a napkin across your lap. my companion and i both ordered the unlimited non-veg meal. yes, unlimited. if homer simpson was interested in Andhra cuisine, this would be his personal paradise. once your leaf is open, waiters quickly come to the table with brimming pots of 4 options. this particular night we got (1) okra curry, (2) green bean curry, (3) dal, and (4) chutney.

quick curry lesson: there are generally 2 kinds of curry: curry served in liquid/sauce and curry served dry. i just learned that in some cases you will call curry in liquid/sauce 'gili sabji', whereas curry served dry is 'sookhi sabji'. 'sabji' just means 'mixture', while 'gili' and 'sookhi' translate to 'wet' and 'dry'.

for this meal, the okra curry was a gili sabji (actually a bhindi sabji - 'bhindi' means okra) and the green bean curry was a sookhi sabji. i'm really a fan of these sookhi sabjis. one of the research fellows made one for lunch earlier this week, which she shared with me while we were hanging out at NIMHANS. they often/always have shredded fresh coconut stirred in, and this coats all the exposed sides of the veg. delicious.

along with the 4 options, we got heaping amounts of white rice (note that Andhra Pradesh is the main rice producing state of India, known as the 'rice bowl' of India), a few papadums, a dish of sambhar (the dal of south India, which includes some vegetables in addition to lentils or beans), a dish of rasam (a complex condiment that contains curry leaves, turmeric, tamarind, garlic, chilies, black pepper, and mustard seeds), and a dish of curd (yogurt). there was also a very incredible delicious mango pickle already on the table, and some sort of graham powder which we sprinkled on our rice. the waiter came back and poured warm ghee over the powder and rice, turning it into a delicious buttery graham powder treat.

once you finish part of your meal, they come back and replenish. over, and over, and over.. until you are forced to turn them away. i ate so much, and it was SO good. the best part is that i ate the whole meal with only my bare right hand. there is something very earthy and liberating about not using utensils. maybe i'll have to keep this tradition alive once i get back to North America...

india: hindi 101 (20)

i've now learned a few hindi words:

ha = yes
ladki = girl
moti = fat girl

11.12.05

india: pizza corner (19)

since the dining hall closes on sunday night, we have to order food into campus or go out - and tonight we ordered Indian pizza from Pizza Corner. if i were going to make Indian pizza, I would probably get a nice thick round of naan bread, slather it with spicy curry sauce, crumble some paneer (mild Indian cheese) over the top, and maybe include some chunks of braised okra or cauliflower or pepper. this wasn't Indian pizza in that sense. just Indian pizza in the sense that it was American pizza trying to be American pizza in India.

and to correct for traffic, delivery in 39 minutes or free.

9.12.05

india: more photos (18)

i've been sparse on the photo content lately because my time has been mostly spent in the histology lab at NIMHANS or in the microscope room here at NCBS. i was able to take a few on one of my trips into NIMHANS this week, which you can find in this album. can also click through the menu to see my Indian desserts and a few more photos of NCBS campus.

india: plans (17)

as my second week here concludes, i'm making arrangements to do a little bit of day-tripping and some shopping/schlepping around Bangalore before leaving on the 19th. today i am going to try to book a spot on a day tour to Mysore (see here) and another day tour to Belur, Halebid and Sharavanabelagola (see here). i'm also planning at least one shopping trip into Bangalore to hit Commercial and M.G. Roads, where i need to obtain a sari and Indian spice tray for myself. tonight we are going to see a real live Bollywood movie in the theatre, which i am TOTALLY excited for. and this will likely be followed by another delicious restaurant meal and perhaps a little celebration for the grad students who just wrote their last exam yesterday.

india: to NIMHANS (16)

i'm beginning to lose track of the days as i become more accustomed to the pace of life here.. trying to remember what i have been up to since last posting. the major undertaking of this week has been travelling back and forth to NIMHANS, the National Institute for Mental Health and Neuro Sciences. the investigator with whom i am working at the moment here at NCBS has a former post-doc from this lab who still collaborates on morphological studies. this former post-doc is now a professor at NIMHANS, and has his morphology lab well set-up over there. NIMHANS is pretty much on the OTHER side of Bangalore, usually an hour's drive in light traffic; however, as i learned today, heavy afternoon traffic can render this journey somewhat unpleasant and long. although, this time provides ample opportunity for observing scenes that any North American might find quirky.

Signage. i've been very intrigued and amused by many store names and store signage that i see along the streets in Bangalore. the one that has been BY FAR most intriguing is for "The Physical Cultural Institute". the sign includes this title in text, flanked by images of two airbrushed men flexing muscles and wearing small undergarments. i'm assuming the establishment is what we North Americans commonly refer to as a "Gym".

Things people can carry on bikes and auto-cabs. so far: an auto-rickshaw with a mattress strapped to the roof (this takes trips to Ikea to a whole other level). a motorbike with the driver carrying a bar stool over his head and upper body. a bicycle pulling a cart filled with 6 LARGE propane tanks.

Crossing the street. i consider myself to be fairly observant, but have not noticed many (i.e., any) prominent cross-walks on any of the streets here. the general strategy seems to be to wait until there is a *minor* break in traffic flow, then run. many people, though, just go Frogger style through the oncoming, fast, heavy traffic. every time i watch this happening, i am completely stunned and amazed that the street-crosser makes it to the other side intact. i thought this habit may be only a trend in daring young Indian males, but today i watched a DOG do the same thing.

6.12.05

india: small flying things (15)

i don't think i'm a very squeamish person, but there are several types of insects which i find particularly aversive. this would have to include the large creepy-crawly type bugs that occasionally make an appearance in basement apartments. and also bees. in the past two days, i have discovered a completely new category of small creatures to be afraid of: bats.

there is a stretch of path right outside the academic block, on the way to the dining hall and hostel, that is shaded by low-hanging berry trees. in the first few nights that i walked home, i noticed there were some interesting-looking birds that seemed to appear out of nowhere and fly around these trees. i thought to myself, odd. birds don't usually make dart-ey flying motions in the evening or at night. but this is India, and things are different. so i accepted and moved on.

then i started to wonder whether these were in fact NOT birds. grad students confirmed my suspicions; they are fruit bats who like to feed on the berries from the trees. they're totally harmless, and only make swoop-ey flying motions when they hear people coming in order to get out of the way. regardless, i think i will be happy to do without them once i head back to North America...

india: more dosa (14)

at last, this past weekend, i was taken out on the town for my second South Indian meal. much to my delight, the grad students accepted that, after a week of acclimation, i was now ready for the 'Real India' dosa restaurant. a quick auto-cab ride left us at a small corner joint that was (quite literally) overflowing with people. we stood by the hand-washing sink near the entrance to the kitchen to wait for a table, in order to maximize our proximity to the group that looked closest to finishing up (no line-ups or priority by time at which you arrived whatsoever, obviously). i think we actually sat down at the table before one of the men had finished his coffee, but amidst the constant traffic of busboys and waiters and customers, no one had a chance to notice.

this week, again, i ordered a masala dosa to start. how could i not, after hearing from one particular grad student that this was in her opinion THE BEST masala dosa ever? to be completely honest, i have not sufficiently developed my palate for masala dosa, and was unable to distinguish between this week's and last week's. regardless, it was delicious. crispy outer layer of pancake, spongy warm inside of pancake. perfectly spicy potatoes and veg inside. this time though, they served it with both the coconut condiment and a coriander condiment. i asked the grad students what the name for these were; i'm told 'coconut chutney' and 'coriander chutney'. so much for exotic. then, we ordered a second round. this time i went for an onion dosa, but also got to sample an idli. idli is a round white cake/loaf-type thing which i was told is made of fermented grain flour. i would liken it to matzoh balls, or some kind of ethiopian spongey bread. very bland, but functional as a carbohydrate. my onion dosa was much more flavourful. this time, instead of wrapping the dosa around the potato like a burrito, the onions were actually cooked into the pancake. the dosa was then folded in half. came with the same condiments. i was again, VERY full after the 2 dosa. but, why have only 1 dosa when in India for only 1.7 more weeks?

to finish, one of the barefoot busboys brought a stack of squares of newspaper. this was to wipe our hands; a step down from the warm water and lemon finger bowls we got at the restaurant last week. but hey, it works! we each had a very tasty coffee, served in a little tin cup resting in a little tin dish. you are supposed to pour the coffee back and forth between the cup and dish to allow it to cool, and then drink it from the dish. i thought the dish was like a saucer, and accidentally missed this whole process.

after this very satisfying meal, we walked a couple of blocks to Asha Sweets, where i had a spectacular Indian Dessert Adventure. i'm still doing a little recon for this post - need to find out names and main ingredients of each selection - but it will be coming soon, complete with photos.

india: lecture-fest (13)

alright.. after a brief hiatus, i am back. i have officially reached the point where the novelty of seeking out nice-looking neurons in my slides has worn off, and a supplementation of daily activities with blog posting is in order.

what have i been doing, really, in the past week? between 3 hour blocks of time in front of the microscope, i have been able to attend daily lectures from visiting scientists at NCBS. apparently, in a stroke of good timing, my trip coincides with an international calcium-signaling workshop. this workshop went on last week somewhere nearby, but the faculty at NCBS managed to pull each famous scientist visiting for this purpose out for a day to give a talk here. as a result, in the past week, i've heard about some pretty incredible research on 2-photon microscopy for real-time calcium imaging in Drosophila (i.e. fruit flies), the role of calcium signaling in T-cell development (i.e. developing cells of the immune system), the role of calcium signaling in determining receptor populations at developing synapses (i.e. in cells of the nervous system), and (from a non-calcium perspective) vesicle endocytosis (i.e. how the little packages carrying transmitter to synapses are taken back into the cell for recycling). even if this sounds like a foreign language, i'm sure you can appreciate the breadth of topics covered.

i was also lucky to catch two lectures by a French physicist, who seemed to be visiting for reasons other than the calcium workshop. the first was a relatively brief summary of three instances in which this professor and his lab had taken biological problems and considered them from a physical perspective, while the second was more focused on how physics can be used to generate artificial cell systems for applications in biology. i strongly believe that biologists and neuroscientists can benefit from interactions with people from other fields, and it was truly inspiring to hear this physicist speak. he was obviously in the later stages of his career, but he brought a refreshing perspective to issues that biologists continue to look at in the same old way. sometime they should have a conference where a bunch of academics from every field (including the humanities and social sciences!) are randomly selected and sent to an island for a week. i bet that at least one discussion would lead to a major scientific development, just from taking a new angle on a problem.

the public dinner i mentioned earlier was held on friday night for the french physicist. this involved eating outside, at tables set out by the pond behind the dining hall. there were red and white striped canopies, and white table cloths, and i felt like i was stepping into a scene from late summer picnic in the 1950s. except instead of rolled cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches, they served mutton with curry, chapatis, and some other spicy dishes that provided a welcome departure from the normal dining hall fare. all in all, a lovely lecture and a lovely evening.

4.12.05

interjection

i know that SOME of you out there are reading this blog, but my comments section is sadly completely empty. since being here, i haven't even gotten any SPAM comments. a little word every once and a while would make me incredibly happy...

india: recent events (12)

no time to write much now. currently scouring pubmed for detailed information on cell morphology in the amygdala... but i have done a few interesting things over the past couple of days that will warrant extensive posting tonight or tomorrow. these include 1) public dinner for guest lecturer on friday evening, 2) second dosa experience at the *real* dosa joint last night, and 3) the Indian sweets boutique. event (3) may span multiple posts. both visual and gustatory delights to recount at length...

but for now, back to work.

1.12.05

india: the science (11)

considering i've now been here for nearly a week (minus approximately 5 hours, as i write), perhaps it would be appropriate to explain WHY exactly i travelled half-way around the world to visit Bangalore. the situation, in general terms, is as follows:

i am currently a grad student in Toronto, and i am interested in the relationship between stressful experiences and the emergence of psychopathology (i.e. symptoms of anxiety, fear, depression, mania, psychosis, etc). for a while now, there has been evidence from patients which suggests that having something very stressful happen to you can precipitate the onset of a mood disorder, and also that the way in which your body and brain is programmed to respond to stress can predict your chances of developing a mood disorder when presented with a very stressful event.

for the past little while, i have been working on a project that takes this potential link between stress and psychopathology and uses it to explore the effects of drugs used to treat psychopathology. basically, if you are stressed, certain things happen in your brain. these certain things are quite possibly involved in the emergence of mood disorders in predisposed individuals. the question is, how do we KNOW that they're REALLY involved in the emergence of mood disorders? as usual in science, this is not a simple question to answer. one of the approaches we can take is to see whether drugs that are currently used to treat mood disorders are able to PREVENT stress-induced brain things from happening. the logic being that:

stress --> brain things, stress --> changes in behaviour

drug --> prevents stress-induced brain things, drug --> prevents stress-induced changes in behaviour

therefore, stress-induced brain things may be related to symptoms treated by the drug

make sense?

it is these 'stress-induced brain things' that have led me to India. here is a quick lesson on neurons: neurons are cells of the nervous system (i.e. spinal cord, brain, blah). neurons are kind of like us, they have a body (called the soma) and appendages (called axons and dendrites). these appendages form contacts with other cells, and communication happens where they meet (at junctions called synapses). on certain types of neurons, synapses form on special structures called spines (for more detail, see Wikipedia entry). this means that on these particular neurons, the number of SPINES present can reflect the number of SYNAPSES present. very helpful, because spines are something we can see AND COUNT under a normal microscope.

it so happens that STRESS affects the number of spines on certain types of neurons. which has led me to my current project.

and that is what i'm doing in India. counting spines. yes, i spend my days in a little tiny closet with a microscope and my iPod... listening to rilo kiley and mouse-clicking a picture of a neuron on the computer screen every time i see a little bump on a dendrite. it's actually quite exciting, when you think that i'm LOOKING AT A CELL OF THE NERVOUS SYSTEM!!! and COUNTING the NUMBER OF CONTACTS IT MAKES WITH OTHER CELLS!!! sometimes i feel like a young Ramon y Cajal, ready to open my sketchbook and make detailed drawings of complicated dendritic arbors...