i don't think i'm a very squeamish person, but there are several types of insects which i find particularly aversive. this would have to include the large creepy-crawly type bugs that occasionally make an appearance in basement apartments. and also bees. in the past two days, i have discovered a completely new category of small creatures to be afraid of: bats.
there is a stretch of path right outside the academic block, on the way to the dining hall and hostel, that is shaded by low-hanging berry trees. in the first few nights that i walked home, i noticed there were some interesting-looking birds that seemed to appear out of nowhere and fly around these trees. i thought to myself, odd. birds don't usually make dart-ey flying motions in the evening or at night. but this is India, and things are different. so i accepted and moved on.
then i started to wonder whether these were in fact NOT birds. grad students confirmed my suspicions; they are fruit bats who like to feed on the berries from the trees. they're totally harmless, and only make swoop-ey flying motions when they hear people coming in order to get out of the way. regardless, i think i will be happy to do without them once i head back to North America...
6.12.05
india: more dosa (14)
at last, this past weekend, i was taken out on the town for my second South Indian meal. much to my delight, the grad students accepted that, after a week of acclimation, i was now ready for the 'Real India' dosa restaurant. a quick auto-cab ride left us at a small corner joint that was (quite literally) overflowing with people. we stood by the hand-washing sink near the entrance to the kitchen to wait for a table, in order to maximize our proximity to the group that looked closest to finishing up (no line-ups or priority by time at which you arrived whatsoever, obviously). i think we actually sat down at the table before one of the men had finished his coffee, but amidst the constant traffic of busboys and waiters and customers, no one had a chance to notice.
this week, again, i ordered a masala dosa to start. how could i not, after hearing from one particular grad student that this was in her opinion THE BEST masala dosa ever? to be completely honest, i have not sufficiently developed my palate for masala dosa, and was unable to distinguish between this week's and last week's. regardless, it was delicious. crispy outer layer of pancake, spongy warm inside of pancake. perfectly spicy potatoes and veg inside. this time though, they served it with both the coconut condiment and a coriander condiment. i asked the grad students what the name for these were; i'm told 'coconut chutney' and 'coriander chutney'. so much for exotic. then, we ordered a second round. this time i went for an onion dosa, but also got to sample an idli. idli is a round white cake/loaf-type thing which i was told is made of fermented grain flour. i would liken it to matzoh balls, or some kind of ethiopian spongey bread. very bland, but functional as a carbohydrate. my onion dosa was much more flavourful. this time, instead of wrapping the dosa around the potato like a burrito, the onions were actually cooked into the pancake. the dosa was then folded in half. came with the same condiments. i was again, VERY full after the 2 dosa. but, why have only 1 dosa when in India for only 1.7 more weeks?
to finish, one of the barefoot busboys brought a stack of squares of newspaper. this was to wipe our hands; a step down from the warm water and lemon finger bowls we got at the restaurant last week. but hey, it works! we each had a very tasty coffee, served in a little tin cup resting in a little tin dish. you are supposed to pour the coffee back and forth between the cup and dish to allow it to cool, and then drink it from the dish. i thought the dish was like a saucer, and accidentally missed this whole process.
after this very satisfying meal, we walked a couple of blocks to Asha Sweets, where i had a spectacular Indian Dessert Adventure. i'm still doing a little recon for this post - need to find out names and main ingredients of each selection - but it will be coming soon, complete with photos.
this week, again, i ordered a masala dosa to start. how could i not, after hearing from one particular grad student that this was in her opinion THE BEST masala dosa ever? to be completely honest, i have not sufficiently developed my palate for masala dosa, and was unable to distinguish between this week's and last week's. regardless, it was delicious. crispy outer layer of pancake, spongy warm inside of pancake. perfectly spicy potatoes and veg inside. this time though, they served it with both the coconut condiment and a coriander condiment. i asked the grad students what the name for these were; i'm told 'coconut chutney' and 'coriander chutney'. so much for exotic. then, we ordered a second round. this time i went for an onion dosa, but also got to sample an idli. idli is a round white cake/loaf-type thing which i was told is made of fermented grain flour. i would liken it to matzoh balls, or some kind of ethiopian spongey bread. very bland, but functional as a carbohydrate. my onion dosa was much more flavourful. this time, instead of wrapping the dosa around the potato like a burrito, the onions were actually cooked into the pancake. the dosa was then folded in half. came with the same condiments. i was again, VERY full after the 2 dosa. but, why have only 1 dosa when in India for only 1.7 more weeks?
to finish, one of the barefoot busboys brought a stack of squares of newspaper. this was to wipe our hands; a step down from the warm water and lemon finger bowls we got at the restaurant last week. but hey, it works! we each had a very tasty coffee, served in a little tin cup resting in a little tin dish. you are supposed to pour the coffee back and forth between the cup and dish to allow it to cool, and then drink it from the dish. i thought the dish was like a saucer, and accidentally missed this whole process.
after this very satisfying meal, we walked a couple of blocks to Asha Sweets, where i had a spectacular Indian Dessert Adventure. i'm still doing a little recon for this post - need to find out names and main ingredients of each selection - but it will be coming soon, complete with photos.
india: lecture-fest (13)
alright.. after a brief hiatus, i am back. i have officially reached the point where the novelty of seeking out nice-looking neurons in my slides has worn off, and a supplementation of daily activities with blog posting is in order.
what have i been doing, really, in the past week? between 3 hour blocks of time in front of the microscope, i have been able to attend daily lectures from visiting scientists at NCBS. apparently, in a stroke of good timing, my trip coincides with an international calcium-signaling workshop. this workshop went on last week somewhere nearby, but the faculty at NCBS managed to pull each famous scientist visiting for this purpose out for a day to give a talk here. as a result, in the past week, i've heard about some pretty incredible research on 2-photon microscopy for real-time calcium imaging in Drosophila (i.e. fruit flies), the role of calcium signaling in T-cell development (i.e. developing cells of the immune system), the role of calcium signaling in determining receptor populations at developing synapses (i.e. in cells of the nervous system), and (from a non-calcium perspective) vesicle endocytosis (i.e. how the little packages carrying transmitter to synapses are taken back into the cell for recycling). even if this sounds like a foreign language, i'm sure you can appreciate the breadth of topics covered.
i was also lucky to catch two lectures by a French physicist, who seemed to be visiting for reasons other than the calcium workshop. the first was a relatively brief summary of three instances in which this professor and his lab had taken biological problems and considered them from a physical perspective, while the second was more focused on how physics can be used to generate artificial cell systems for applications in biology. i strongly believe that biologists and neuroscientists can benefit from interactions with people from other fields, and it was truly inspiring to hear this physicist speak. he was obviously in the later stages of his career, but he brought a refreshing perspective to issues that biologists continue to look at in the same old way. sometime they should have a conference where a bunch of academics from every field (including the humanities and social sciences!) are randomly selected and sent to an island for a week. i bet that at least one discussion would lead to a major scientific development, just from taking a new angle on a problem.
the public dinner i mentioned earlier was held on friday night for the french physicist. this involved eating outside, at tables set out by the pond behind the dining hall. there were red and white striped canopies, and white table cloths, and i felt like i was stepping into a scene from late summer picnic in the 1950s. except instead of rolled cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches, they served mutton with curry, chapatis, and some other spicy dishes that provided a welcome departure from the normal dining hall fare. all in all, a lovely lecture and a lovely evening.
what have i been doing, really, in the past week? between 3 hour blocks of time in front of the microscope, i have been able to attend daily lectures from visiting scientists at NCBS. apparently, in a stroke of good timing, my trip coincides with an international calcium-signaling workshop. this workshop went on last week somewhere nearby, but the faculty at NCBS managed to pull each famous scientist visiting for this purpose out for a day to give a talk here. as a result, in the past week, i've heard about some pretty incredible research on 2-photon microscopy for real-time calcium imaging in Drosophila (i.e. fruit flies), the role of calcium signaling in T-cell development (i.e. developing cells of the immune system), the role of calcium signaling in determining receptor populations at developing synapses (i.e. in cells of the nervous system), and (from a non-calcium perspective) vesicle endocytosis (i.e. how the little packages carrying transmitter to synapses are taken back into the cell for recycling). even if this sounds like a foreign language, i'm sure you can appreciate the breadth of topics covered.
i was also lucky to catch two lectures by a French physicist, who seemed to be visiting for reasons other than the calcium workshop. the first was a relatively brief summary of three instances in which this professor and his lab had taken biological problems and considered them from a physical perspective, while the second was more focused on how physics can be used to generate artificial cell systems for applications in biology. i strongly believe that biologists and neuroscientists can benefit from interactions with people from other fields, and it was truly inspiring to hear this physicist speak. he was obviously in the later stages of his career, but he brought a refreshing perspective to issues that biologists continue to look at in the same old way. sometime they should have a conference where a bunch of academics from every field (including the humanities and social sciences!) are randomly selected and sent to an island for a week. i bet that at least one discussion would lead to a major scientific development, just from taking a new angle on a problem.
the public dinner i mentioned earlier was held on friday night for the french physicist. this involved eating outside, at tables set out by the pond behind the dining hall. there were red and white striped canopies, and white table cloths, and i felt like i was stepping into a scene from late summer picnic in the 1950s. except instead of rolled cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches, they served mutton with curry, chapatis, and some other spicy dishes that provided a welcome departure from the normal dining hall fare. all in all, a lovely lecture and a lovely evening.
4.12.05
interjection
i know that SOME of you out there are reading this blog, but my comments section is sadly completely empty. since being here, i haven't even gotten any SPAM comments. a little word every once and a while would make me incredibly happy...
india: recent events (12)
no time to write much now. currently scouring pubmed for detailed information on cell morphology in the amygdala... but i have done a few interesting things over the past couple of days that will warrant extensive posting tonight or tomorrow. these include 1) public dinner for guest lecturer on friday evening, 2) second dosa experience at the *real* dosa joint last night, and 3) the Indian sweets boutique. event (3) may span multiple posts. both visual and gustatory delights to recount at length...
but for now, back to work.
but for now, back to work.
1.12.05
india: the science (11)
considering i've now been here for nearly a week (minus approximately 5 hours, as i write), perhaps it would be appropriate to explain WHY exactly i travelled half-way around the world to visit Bangalore. the situation, in general terms, is as follows:
i am currently a grad student in Toronto, and i am interested in the relationship between stressful experiences and the emergence of psychopathology (i.e. symptoms of anxiety, fear, depression, mania, psychosis, etc). for a while now, there has been evidence from patients which suggests that having something very stressful happen to you can precipitate the onset of a mood disorder, and also that the way in which your body and brain is programmed to respond to stress can predict your chances of developing a mood disorder when presented with a very stressful event.
for the past little while, i have been working on a project that takes this potential link between stress and psychopathology and uses it to explore the effects of drugs used to treat psychopathology. basically, if you are stressed, certain things happen in your brain. these certain things are quite possibly involved in the emergence of mood disorders in predisposed individuals. the question is, how do we KNOW that they're REALLY involved in the emergence of mood disorders? as usual in science, this is not a simple question to answer. one of the approaches we can take is to see whether drugs that are currently used to treat mood disorders are able to PREVENT stress-induced brain things from happening. the logic being that:
stress --> brain things, stress --> changes in behaviour
drug --> prevents stress-induced brain things, drug --> prevents stress-induced changes in behaviour
therefore, stress-induced brain things may be related to symptoms treated by the drug
make sense?
it is these 'stress-induced brain things' that have led me to India. here is a quick lesson on neurons: neurons are cells of the nervous system (i.e. spinal cord, brain, blah). neurons are kind of like us, they have a body (called the soma) and appendages (called axons and dendrites). these appendages form contacts with other cells, and communication happens where they meet (at junctions called synapses). on certain types of neurons, synapses form on special structures called spines (for more detail, see Wikipedia entry). this means that on these particular neurons, the number of SPINES present can reflect the number of SYNAPSES present. very helpful, because spines are something we can see AND COUNT under a normal microscope.
it so happens that STRESS affects the number of spines on certain types of neurons. which has led me to my current project.
and that is what i'm doing in India. counting spines. yes, i spend my days in a little tiny closet with a microscope and my iPod... listening to rilo kiley and mouse-clicking a picture of a neuron on the computer screen every time i see a little bump on a dendrite. it's actually quite exciting, when you think that i'm LOOKING AT A CELL OF THE NERVOUS SYSTEM!!! and COUNTING the NUMBER OF CONTACTS IT MAKES WITH OTHER CELLS!!! sometimes i feel like a young Ramon y Cajal, ready to open my sketchbook and make detailed drawings of complicated dendritic arbors...
i am currently a grad student in Toronto, and i am interested in the relationship between stressful experiences and the emergence of psychopathology (i.e. symptoms of anxiety, fear, depression, mania, psychosis, etc). for a while now, there has been evidence from patients which suggests that having something very stressful happen to you can precipitate the onset of a mood disorder, and also that the way in which your body and brain is programmed to respond to stress can predict your chances of developing a mood disorder when presented with a very stressful event.
for the past little while, i have been working on a project that takes this potential link between stress and psychopathology and uses it to explore the effects of drugs used to treat psychopathology. basically, if you are stressed, certain things happen in your brain. these certain things are quite possibly involved in the emergence of mood disorders in predisposed individuals. the question is, how do we KNOW that they're REALLY involved in the emergence of mood disorders? as usual in science, this is not a simple question to answer. one of the approaches we can take is to see whether drugs that are currently used to treat mood disorders are able to PREVENT stress-induced brain things from happening. the logic being that:
stress --> brain things, stress --> changes in behaviour
drug --> prevents stress-induced brain things, drug --> prevents stress-induced changes in behaviour
therefore, stress-induced brain things may be related to symptoms treated by the drug
make sense?
it is these 'stress-induced brain things' that have led me to India. here is a quick lesson on neurons: neurons are cells of the nervous system (i.e. spinal cord, brain, blah). neurons are kind of like us, they have a body (called the soma) and appendages (called axons and dendrites). these appendages form contacts with other cells, and communication happens where they meet (at junctions called synapses). on certain types of neurons, synapses form on special structures called spines (for more detail, see Wikipedia entry). this means that on these particular neurons, the number of SPINES present can reflect the number of SYNAPSES present. very helpful, because spines are something we can see AND COUNT under a normal microscope.
it so happens that STRESS affects the number of spines on certain types of neurons. which has led me to my current project.
and that is what i'm doing in India. counting spines. yes, i spend my days in a little tiny closet with a microscope and my iPod... listening to rilo kiley and mouse-clicking a picture of a neuron on the computer screen every time i see a little bump on a dendrite. it's actually quite exciting, when you think that i'm LOOKING AT A CELL OF THE NERVOUS SYSTEM!!! and COUNTING the NUMBER OF CONTACTS IT MAKES WITH OTHER CELLS!!! sometimes i feel like a young Ramon y Cajal, ready to open my sketchbook and make detailed drawings of complicated dendritic arbors...
29.11.05
india: first photos (10)
went down to see the LAN administrator this morning and he did something to my laptop which now permits me to access the internet. yay! i've uploaded my first photos to my .mac site, so you can take a look at my room, the view from the hostel, and some plants. alternately, access the index here.
i'll try to have some photos of Bangalore proper soon. at the latest, by Sunday night - after my next delicious meal.
i'll try to have some photos of Bangalore proper soon. at the latest, by Sunday night - after my next delicious meal.
28.11.05
india: first meal out (9)
i've been anxiously awaiting the opportunity to post about my first TRUE Indian meal. given that over the weekend i ate only in the dining hall, and at an Italian restaurant with my supervisor as he passed through Bangalore on Saturday night, i was looking forward to Sunday because no dinner is served on campus. necessitating the going out to find food. at first the grad students in the lab were planning to just order in, but somehow circumstances changed and i found myself crammed into the back of an auto-cab on my way to sample masala dosa (on a side note, auto-cab rides through speedy traffic = most fun).
we went to what appeared to be a family restaurant, which 'specialized' in South Indian cuisine. to distinguish, most classic Canadian-Indian food is North Indian cuisine - naan bread, tandoor, etc. in doing my background food research before coming here, i didn't recognize any of the names of the characteristic South Indian dishes... and so I was looking forward to trying all. we started with the masala dosa, which is a large crepe-like pancake made of ground lentils and some type of whole grain, allowed to ferment together, pounded out, then fried crispy on a hot cast-iron skillet. only one side is fried, which leaves the other spongey and moist and delicious. in thinking back, i MAY have had a dosa at The Roses Cafe in Ottawa at one time... but it was nowhere near as good as this dosa. folded inside was a nice helping of spiced potato and veg, plus a couple of green chiles. they melt butter on the outside of the folded pancake, which is a perfect finishing touch. dosa, by the way, refers to the pancake - while masala refers to the spices used to season the potatoes inside.
i probably could have left the restaurant after the dosa and been very nicely satisfied. fortunately, the grad students i was with are into eating more than necessary on occasion, and we ordered several other dishes. along with my dosa i had a sweet lassi. i kept assuming it would have mango in it, but was corrected that 'sweet lassi' was just yogurt blended and sweetened with sugar. only 'mango lassi' comes with mango. the lassi was much thicker than what i've had in Canada, but pleasantly tangy and perfect against the spice of the dosa.
next came rounds of naan bread to soak up the rich sauce of the vegetable kofte and of a creamy paneer. kofte i recognized from turkish cuisine, where it refers to a kebab type serving of lamb or chicken or other meat, covered in a heavily-spiced yogurt sauce. this kofte was not meat, but seemed to be a patty of lentil or chickpea paste covered in a spicy yogurt sauce. i'll have to confirm what was in the kofte. we also had a particular type of paneer which is more creamy than others (paneer refers to a cottage-type cheese, which i've most commonly had with spinach - as in saag paneer). it was flecked with veg and peas and was very tasty. again, i'll have to confirm exactly what type this paneer was.
thoroughly stuffed, i managed to make room for my newest favourite beverage: Indian filter coffee. they serve it in small cups, much like espresso. it reminds me of greek or turkish coffee - sweetened and frothy. i enjoy one of these at the coffee bar on the roof of the NCBS academic building in the mornings now.
and so ended my first TRUE Indian meal. apparently, there is a restaurant that serves MUCH better dosa - but it is a little 'rough around the edges' (i.e. squares of newspaper in lieu of napkins). i've been told that after i continue to acclimate for another week, i'll be allowed to experience it next sunday. counting down...
we went to what appeared to be a family restaurant, which 'specialized' in South Indian cuisine. to distinguish, most classic Canadian-Indian food is North Indian cuisine - naan bread, tandoor, etc. in doing my background food research before coming here, i didn't recognize any of the names of the characteristic South Indian dishes... and so I was looking forward to trying all. we started with the masala dosa, which is a large crepe-like pancake made of ground lentils and some type of whole grain, allowed to ferment together, pounded out, then fried crispy on a hot cast-iron skillet. only one side is fried, which leaves the other spongey and moist and delicious. in thinking back, i MAY have had a dosa at The Roses Cafe in Ottawa at one time... but it was nowhere near as good as this dosa. folded inside was a nice helping of spiced potato and veg, plus a couple of green chiles. they melt butter on the outside of the folded pancake, which is a perfect finishing touch. dosa, by the way, refers to the pancake - while masala refers to the spices used to season the potatoes inside.
i probably could have left the restaurant after the dosa and been very nicely satisfied. fortunately, the grad students i was with are into eating more than necessary on occasion, and we ordered several other dishes. along with my dosa i had a sweet lassi. i kept assuming it would have mango in it, but was corrected that 'sweet lassi' was just yogurt blended and sweetened with sugar. only 'mango lassi' comes with mango. the lassi was much thicker than what i've had in Canada, but pleasantly tangy and perfect against the spice of the dosa.
next came rounds of naan bread to soak up the rich sauce of the vegetable kofte and of a creamy paneer. kofte i recognized from turkish cuisine, where it refers to a kebab type serving of lamb or chicken or other meat, covered in a heavily-spiced yogurt sauce. this kofte was not meat, but seemed to be a patty of lentil or chickpea paste covered in a spicy yogurt sauce. i'll have to confirm what was in the kofte. we also had a particular type of paneer which is more creamy than others (paneer refers to a cottage-type cheese, which i've most commonly had with spinach - as in saag paneer). it was flecked with veg and peas and was very tasty. again, i'll have to confirm exactly what type this paneer was.
thoroughly stuffed, i managed to make room for my newest favourite beverage: Indian filter coffee. they serve it in small cups, much like espresso. it reminds me of greek or turkish coffee - sweetened and frothy. i enjoy one of these at the coffee bar on the roof of the NCBS academic building in the mornings now.
and so ended my first TRUE Indian meal. apparently, there is a restaurant that serves MUCH better dosa - but it is a little 'rough around the edges' (i.e. squares of newspaper in lieu of napkins). i've been told that after i continue to acclimate for another week, i'll be allowed to experience it next sunday. counting down...
india: money changed (8)
mission to the state bank of india for my currency exchange was successful. my 75 USD worked out to something like 3400 Rupees (Rs-3400). to put this in perspective, at the dining hall i can get a very filling meal of 1 chapati, 1 heaping mound of lemon rice, 2 small servings of miscellaneous veg curry, 1 small dish of yogurt, and a 1 L bottle of water for Rs-30 (significantly less than 1 USD). since i only buy 1 L of water a day, i only end up spending about Rs-60 on eating per day. this also includes 2 coffee breaks and a breakfast snack/sandwich. even when we ate out last night (more on that to follow), the HUGE meal for 4 of us, including bottled water, lassi, and coffee, came to about Rs-480. eating in India is incredibly cheap! this means more Rupees leftover to buy gifts...
on a side note, despite my being a relatively intelligent person, i am continually amazed by my tendency to do fundamentally stupid things. before i left my room this morning, knowing FULLY that i was going to head to the bank to exchange my currency, i decided that it would be better to leave my passport locked in my suitcase, locked in my closet, and locked in my room than to carry it around with me in my bag (as i had been doing for the last couple of days). several of you probably know that i also brought several COPIES of my passport with me to India (one for each piece of luggage) but for some reason i neglected to transfer one of these copies to my bag. and of course, when i arrived at the foreign currency exchange counter to get my rupees, the first thing the teller asked for was MY PASSPORT or EVEN JUST A COPY of my passport. she was wielding the iron fist on the requirement, but the teller next door overheard my pleas, and saw me pulling out multiple pieces of canadian photo ID, and she let me off after taking a copy of my driver's license. with a promise to bring my passport tomorrow. sigh. i suppose next time i'll know.
on a side note, despite my being a relatively intelligent person, i am continually amazed by my tendency to do fundamentally stupid things. before i left my room this morning, knowing FULLY that i was going to head to the bank to exchange my currency, i decided that it would be better to leave my passport locked in my suitcase, locked in my closet, and locked in my room than to carry it around with me in my bag (as i had been doing for the last couple of days). several of you probably know that i also brought several COPIES of my passport with me to India (one for each piece of luggage) but for some reason i neglected to transfer one of these copies to my bag. and of course, when i arrived at the foreign currency exchange counter to get my rupees, the first thing the teller asked for was MY PASSPORT or EVEN JUST A COPY of my passport. she was wielding the iron fist on the requirement, but the teller next door overheard my pleas, and saw me pulling out multiple pieces of canadian photo ID, and she let me off after taking a copy of my driver's license. with a promise to bring my passport tomorrow. sigh. i suppose next time i'll know.
27.11.05
india: photo teaser (7)
here are a couple of my favourites from today.
view of the front of my hostel, from the terrace above. note the red earth and tropical foliage.
one of the outdoor 'hallways' of the hostel, where you'll see everyone hangs their laundry to dry.
view of the front of my hostel, from the terrace above. note the red earth and tropical foliage.
one of the outdoor 'hallways' of the hostel, where you'll see everyone hangs their laundry to dry.
india: money-changing (6)
after reading on every india travel web site that it is illegal to bring rupees into the country, i decided the best plan of attack was to pick up some USD in Toronto and then exchange once i got here. the travel guide i was reading told me there was an exchange counter at the airport, but it also told me to avoid using any shady-looking currency exchange services. given this is my first time travelling to India, it was hard to immediately distinguish 'shady' from 'non-shady'... and I decided to forego the airport exchange service for this reason.
thus, i was left with a bunch of american dollars and no rupees - and i hadn't really known that i would have to pay for my meals here on campus in rupees (having lived in residence at Dal for many years, I naively assumed they would have a swipe card system in place). fortunately, for the past few days i've been allowed to run a tab at the cafeteria, but i was starting to feel guilty about asking for bottles of water and things when i couldn't actually pay.
hence, my first adventure: an excursion to downtown Bangalore on the shuttle bus to exchange currency at the Thomas Cook on IISc (Indian Institute of Sciences) campus. by myself. instructions from the grad students here were very clear - the Thomas Cook is located next the the shuttle bus stop (i.e., impossible to NOT find). so off I went.
first, the shuttle bus. it was Saturday afternoon, and quite a few of the students here were heading downtown to visit family or go shopping, so the bus was crowded. I didn't realize I'd have to push ahead to get a seat, so I ended up standing for most of the journey. after living in Toronto for over a year, I've honed my TTC-riding skills enough to not hold on to the dirty poles. this shuttle ride was a) nothing like the smooth-as-velvet TTC tracks and b) required clinging to (comparably) much dirtier poles. not only was the road out of campus incredibly rocky, but the driver took it at what felt like 80 or 90 km/h. then, traffic. I had no idea what Indian highways would actually be like. trucks, buses, cars, SUVs, auto-cabs (little half rickshaw-half car type things with a seat in the back for passengers), motorbikes, scooters. no lanes. very muddy red dirt roads. huge lines of people waiting on the shoulder of the highway for a passing bus to pause and allow a few to jump on. and HORNS. constant NOISE. I get fed up with Toronto drivers who use the horn unnecessarily, but after 5 minutes on the Indian highway, it's hard to imagine being annoyed by a few isolated beeps. the constant honking and blaring quickly fades into the background.
what amazed me most was the aggression/fearlessness of the motorbike drivers. imagine you have 4 lanes of traffic moving at a good clip in the same direction. then imagine you have 5 times as many motorbikes as you do cars in a given 5 vehicle by 5 vehicle area. then imagine these motorbikes not actually occupying positions in any given lane, but rather weaving in and out of traffic, speeding up erratically, and cutting around trucks on the shoulder. only a handful wear helmets. and i was highly impressed by the number of women dressed in impeccably clean saris who managed to keep up with the chaos on their own bikes.
the rest of the trip was less eventful/noteworthy. after arriving at Thomas Cook, I was told they only exchange currency at the M.G. Road (shopping district) location... but there are 2 banks on campus where I could get rupees. so I set out to find the banks, and was successful thanks to many helpful directions from passersby. unfortunately, both banks had closed before lunch, and by now it was about 2:45 pm. most businesses seem to only open for Saturday morning, then close down for the rest of the weekend. so I'll head back to IISc tomorrow, and hopefully return with enough rupees to cover meals for the remainder of my stay.
thus, i was left with a bunch of american dollars and no rupees - and i hadn't really known that i would have to pay for my meals here on campus in rupees (having lived in residence at Dal for many years, I naively assumed they would have a swipe card system in place). fortunately, for the past few days i've been allowed to run a tab at the cafeteria, but i was starting to feel guilty about asking for bottles of water and things when i couldn't actually pay.
hence, my first adventure: an excursion to downtown Bangalore on the shuttle bus to exchange currency at the Thomas Cook on IISc (Indian Institute of Sciences) campus. by myself. instructions from the grad students here were very clear - the Thomas Cook is located next the the shuttle bus stop (i.e., impossible to NOT find). so off I went.
first, the shuttle bus. it was Saturday afternoon, and quite a few of the students here were heading downtown to visit family or go shopping, so the bus was crowded. I didn't realize I'd have to push ahead to get a seat, so I ended up standing for most of the journey. after living in Toronto for over a year, I've honed my TTC-riding skills enough to not hold on to the dirty poles. this shuttle ride was a) nothing like the smooth-as-velvet TTC tracks and b) required clinging to (comparably) much dirtier poles. not only was the road out of campus incredibly rocky, but the driver took it at what felt like 80 or 90 km/h. then, traffic. I had no idea what Indian highways would actually be like. trucks, buses, cars, SUVs, auto-cabs (little half rickshaw-half car type things with a seat in the back for passengers), motorbikes, scooters. no lanes. very muddy red dirt roads. huge lines of people waiting on the shoulder of the highway for a passing bus to pause and allow a few to jump on. and HORNS. constant NOISE. I get fed up with Toronto drivers who use the horn unnecessarily, but after 5 minutes on the Indian highway, it's hard to imagine being annoyed by a few isolated beeps. the constant honking and blaring quickly fades into the background.
what amazed me most was the aggression/fearlessness of the motorbike drivers. imagine you have 4 lanes of traffic moving at a good clip in the same direction. then imagine you have 5 times as many motorbikes as you do cars in a given 5 vehicle by 5 vehicle area. then imagine these motorbikes not actually occupying positions in any given lane, but rather weaving in and out of traffic, speeding up erratically, and cutting around trucks on the shoulder. only a handful wear helmets. and i was highly impressed by the number of women dressed in impeccably clean saris who managed to keep up with the chaos on their own bikes.
the rest of the trip was less eventful/noteworthy. after arriving at Thomas Cook, I was told they only exchange currency at the M.G. Road (shopping district) location... but there are 2 banks on campus where I could get rupees. so I set out to find the banks, and was successful thanks to many helpful directions from passersby. unfortunately, both banks had closed before lunch, and by now it was about 2:45 pm. most businesses seem to only open for Saturday morning, then close down for the rest of the weekend. so I'll head back to IISc tomorrow, and hopefully return with enough rupees to cover meals for the remainder of my stay.
25.11.05
india: arrived (5)
after 7 hours of cramped up sleeping on the flight to Heathrow, close to 10 hours of trying to sleep but instead watching the new Charlie and the Chocolate Factory movie multiple times on the flight to Bangalore, two unfortunate plane dinners, two unfortunate plane breakfasts, and a British Starbucks latte, I am now officially in India. I arrived at approximately 4:30 this morning.. and it is now 9:48 at night. Somehow I have only slept for about 4 hours over the course of the day, but hope to compensate and sleep somewhat normal hours tonight.
first impressions?
the weather is very pleasant. definitely not hot, probably about 15 degrees celsius today. cloudy. apparently it has been raining all week, and will continue to rain forever. not driving rain, but just drizzles.
there are trees everywhere. tropical-type trees. palm trees. orange trees. mango trees. trees with flowers.
instead of pigeons on the cricket field outside my hostel, there are beautiful large white birds. i'm not sure what they are yet, but will ask next time i see one with an Indian friend close at hand.
**found out on saturday, they are egrets!
the food in the cafeteria here is apparently 'americanized' Indian cuisine, to accommodate all of the NCBS faculty who studied/grew up abroad and then returned to India. it's not spicy at all! except with generous doses of mango-lime pickle.
i think that shall be it for now. just wanted to let you all know that i am here, i am safe, i have a room to myself with a toilet that flushes, my laptop will be connected to the LAN here very soon, and i should be counting dendrites by monday. pictures will follow as soon as my laptop can access the internet.
first impressions?
the weather is very pleasant. definitely not hot, probably about 15 degrees celsius today. cloudy. apparently it has been raining all week, and will continue to rain forever. not driving rain, but just drizzles.
there are trees everywhere. tropical-type trees. palm trees. orange trees. mango trees. trees with flowers.
instead of pigeons on the cricket field outside my hostel, there are beautiful large white birds. i'm not sure what they are yet, but will ask next time i see one with an Indian friend close at hand.
**found out on saturday, they are egrets!
the food in the cafeteria here is apparently 'americanized' Indian cuisine, to accommodate all of the NCBS faculty who studied/grew up abroad and then returned to India. it's not spicy at all! except with generous doses of mango-lime pickle.
i think that shall be it for now. just wanted to let you all know that i am here, i am safe, i have a room to myself with a toilet that flushes, my laptop will be connected to the LAN here very soon, and i should be counting dendrites by monday. pictures will follow as soon as my laptop can access the internet.
23.11.05
india: pretty much packed (4)
with just under 24 hours to go, my luggage finally gave in and swallowed the 4 varieties of footwear, rain jacket, and items of clothing i deem necessary for the trip. i've succeeded in not taking advantage of my suitcase's expando-matic capabilities for the trip there. this translates to room for beautiful indian fabric, a new sari (to replace the electric green version used for a grade 11 kathakali dance piece costume), and an indian spice tray on the way home.
21.11.05
india: raspberry bicarbonate (3)
back from a trip to washington, DC for neuroscience 2005. unfortunately got plane-sick on the way home, and now planning to invest in some gravol to prevent any recurrences this week. in less than 72 hours i will be en route to bangalore! definitely have NOT fully realized this is happening yet.took my second dose of dukoral tonight (wards off cholera and E. coli nastiness). can't remember taking an oral vaccine before this. it came in a box with a little recipe sheet. the illustrated instructions told me to 'dissolve the effervescent granules in a glass of water'. then, shake up and add tiny vial of vaccine. tastes like raspberry seltzer with a heaping tablespoon of sodium bicarbonate. mmmmmmmmm.
9.11.05
Race Against Time
one more thing. tonight i was lucky to catch the second of Stephen Lewis' Massey Lectures on CBC, in which he passionately discussed the AIDS pandemic in Africa. definitely worth tuning in for the remaining two installments. the CBC Radio schedule and information on 'Race Against Time', Massey Lectures 2005 here.
india: 2 weeks to go (2)
since recovering from my multiple arm ailments, i've had the chance to meet the investigator who i will be working with in Bangalore. among other more important, research-oriented things, he confirmed for me that wireless access is to be had on the NCBS campus, as well as a hook-up in my room at the guest-house.
so it looks like i will be able to stay in very good touch. perhaps now would be the time for me to let everyone know about this little travelogue/whatever?
so it looks like i will be able to stay in very good touch. perhaps now would be the time for me to let everyone know about this little travelogue/whatever?
27.10.05
india: ouch (1)
somehow, my arm has contracted hepatitis A and typhoid fever. arm is a little confused, because arm is still in canada, and did not go near any tap water or mixed drinks with ice cubes. arm hurts.
arm reminds me with a dull, throbbing, just-been-vacccinated pain: YOU ARE GOING TO INDIA SOON.
22.10.05
sacks, oliver
it's the kind of cold rain day outside that has been so far perfect for things like listening to mazzy star, eating oatmeal with maple syrup, responding to letters from friends, and having conversations with mikey the cat (who keeps asking to go outside, but then abruptly turning up her nose and walking away when i show her it is still a cold rain day outside).
my most recent conversation with mikey focused on the exciting events planned for this evening:
Keynote Lecture
Muki Baum Conference on Sensory Disorders and Therapy
6:30 pm (doors open at 5:45 pm)
Featuring: DR. OLIVER SACKS
as mikey contemplated my praise of 'Uncle Tungsten' and 'The Island of the Color-Blind', my anticipation for this landmark event in the history of my life mounted. oliver and i found each other approx. 5 years ago when i picked up one of his neurological case study books at the recommendation of a psychology prof. he rapidly ascended to my ranks of 'science hero'.
i need to go find something appropriate to wear.
my most recent conversation with mikey focused on the exciting events planned for this evening:
Keynote Lecture
Muki Baum Conference on Sensory Disorders and Therapy
6:30 pm (doors open at 5:45 pm)
Featuring: DR. OLIVER SACKS
as mikey contemplated my praise of 'Uncle Tungsten' and 'The Island of the Color-Blind', my anticipation for this landmark event in the history of my life mounted. oliver and i found each other approx. 5 years ago when i picked up one of his neurological case study books at the recommendation of a psychology prof. he rapidly ascended to my ranks of 'science hero'.
i need to go find something appropriate to wear.
10.10.05
thanksgiving
the visa for india has now been obtained.
next time i plan to travel to a foreign country, i think i may consider mailing in my application and passport rather than waiting for lengthy periods of time at the consulate. when i arrived at the offices around 10:00 am on a processing morning (applications accepted until 12:00 noon - i figured this provided plenty of time for me to pass in my pre-filled out form and photos), my bags were searched, and i was handed a number chit and instructed to watch the VISA display. a 8.5x11" sheet of paper with a large letter E was taped to said VISA display. i quickly inferred that this referred to the prefix on my number chit, which incidentally read B27. as the VISA display announced the turn of person E27 with a derisive ping sound, i edged my way through the crowds to one of the few available seats and hoped that the mysterious letters appearing on 8.5x11" sheets of paper beneath the VISA display did not comply with standard alphabetical order. luckily, this was the case. but it was a good 2 hours before i was summoned to the counter by my very own much-awaited ping. i'm glad i remembered to bring along my copy of this. together with the longest-eyelashed-female-baby i have come across in my life to date (sitting directly in front of me), provided ample entertainment for the waiting period. steingarten is brilliant. don't think i've laughed out loud so hard since i came across david sedaris last spring. to cut this tangential story short, i picked up my passport - complete with visa sticker - the following afternoon. what i don't understand is why they felt the need to plunk it down on page 13 of my otherwise empty travel document. can't they adhere to my obsessive-compulsive tendencies of order order order??? books to be filled are MEANT to be filled from page 1 to page n, in the serial order of {1, 1+1, 1+2, 1+3, ... , n-3, n-2, n-2, n}. right? i suppose i'll have to learn to live with this, as multiple friends have now informed me that passport stamping officers simply 'don't care' about such things. oh well.
next time i plan to travel to a foreign country, i think i may consider mailing in my application and passport rather than waiting for lengthy periods of time at the consulate. when i arrived at the offices around 10:00 am on a processing morning (applications accepted until 12:00 noon - i figured this provided plenty of time for me to pass in my pre-filled out form and photos), my bags were searched, and i was handed a number chit and instructed to watch the VISA display. a 8.5x11" sheet of paper with a large letter E was taped to said VISA display. i quickly inferred that this referred to the prefix on my number chit, which incidentally read B27. as the VISA display announced the turn of person E27 with a derisive ping sound, i edged my way through the crowds to one of the few available seats and hoped that the mysterious letters appearing on 8.5x11" sheets of paper beneath the VISA display did not comply with standard alphabetical order. luckily, this was the case. but it was a good 2 hours before i was summoned to the counter by my very own much-awaited ping. i'm glad i remembered to bring along my copy of this. together with the longest-eyelashed-female-baby i have come across in my life to date (sitting directly in front of me), provided ample entertainment for the waiting period. steingarten is brilliant. don't think i've laughed out loud so hard since i came across david sedaris last spring. to cut this tangential story short, i picked up my passport - complete with visa sticker - the following afternoon. what i don't understand is why they felt the need to plunk it down on page 13 of my otherwise empty travel document. can't they adhere to my obsessive-compulsive tendencies of order order order??? books to be filled are MEANT to be filled from page 1 to page n, in the serial order of {1, 1+1, 1+2, 1+3, ... , n-3, n-2, n-2, n}. right? i suppose i'll have to learn to live with this, as multiple friends have now informed me that passport stamping officers simply 'don't care' about such things. oh well.
3.10.05
music note #3
two weeks since i started in earnest, and still working on those grants. i have three to do, two of which are thankfully similar in format. this weekend i finally had a significant breakthrough, probably owing to the pressure of NEEDING to really finish by this coming friday. i wonder if cognitive behavioural therapy could alter my procrastination patterns...
grant writing is always made much more enjoyable/worthwhile by the following:
- long walks in the early evening, during which one contemplates one's human experience in an attempt to understand why one is truly worthy of receiving money from the government to study something
- grande non-fat starbucks lattes
- black hardcover notebooks filled with science and education-related ideas, compiled since last time one endured a grant-writing process
- house cleaning that gets done during Stage I Procrastination
- tasty muffins that get baked during Stage IV Procrastination
- an appropriate soundtrack
which brings me to the true reason for this post, my top 7 songs of the weekend, from iTunes playlist "Immunohistochemistry II".
1. with arms outstretched - rilo kiley (yes, still obsessed...)
warning: this song will actually make you believe you are sitting around a campfire with rilo kiley
2. conceal me - xavier rudd (thank you snad's picks 2004 for this one)
3. pink bullets - the shins (quickly becoming a fan of these guys)
4. the unwelcome guest - billy bragg & wilco (mermaid avenue)
5. the wrong girl - belle & sebastian (finally available on iTunes...)
6. cannonball - damien rice (new discovery: david gray-ish)
7. breathe in - frou frou (another new discovery: sort of bjork-ish)
and can i also just draw attention to what will likely become my next music obsession (after i tire of rilo kiley, not soon): Isobel Campbell (of Belle & Sebastian) in The Gentle Waves. think nancy sinatra slightly toned-down, but still delightfully head-boppy. if you're unfamiliar, check out Sisterwoman off Swansong for You.
time to fall asleep with rilo kiley forever running through my head.
up for this week: final menu plan for my Deconstructed Thanksgiving Dinner party, final touches on first grant app, apply for visa to go to india, finish all immunohistochemistry for experiment, set new routine of going to bed every night before 1:00 am, set new routine of getting out of bed every morning before 7:30 am. i can already detect incompatibility between several of said objectives...
grant writing is always made much more enjoyable/worthwhile by the following:
- long walks in the early evening, during which one contemplates one's human experience in an attempt to understand why one is truly worthy of receiving money from the government to study something
- grande non-fat starbucks lattes
- black hardcover notebooks filled with science and education-related ideas, compiled since last time one endured a grant-writing process
- house cleaning that gets done during Stage I Procrastination
- tasty muffins that get baked during Stage IV Procrastination
- an appropriate soundtrack
which brings me to the true reason for this post, my top 7 songs of the weekend, from iTunes playlist "Immunohistochemistry II".
1. with arms outstretched - rilo kiley (yes, still obsessed...)
warning: this song will actually make you believe you are sitting around a campfire with rilo kiley
2. conceal me - xavier rudd (thank you snad's picks 2004 for this one)
3. pink bullets - the shins (quickly becoming a fan of these guys)
4. the unwelcome guest - billy bragg & wilco (mermaid avenue)
5. the wrong girl - belle & sebastian (finally available on iTunes...)
6. cannonball - damien rice (new discovery: david gray-ish)
7. breathe in - frou frou (another new discovery: sort of bjork-ish)
and can i also just draw attention to what will likely become my next music obsession (after i tire of rilo kiley, not soon): Isobel Campbell (of Belle & Sebastian) in The Gentle Waves. think nancy sinatra slightly toned-down, but still delightfully head-boppy. if you're unfamiliar, check out Sisterwoman off Swansong for You.
time to fall asleep with rilo kiley forever running through my head.
up for this week: final menu plan for my Deconstructed Thanksgiving Dinner party, final touches on first grant app, apply for visa to go to india, finish all immunohistochemistry for experiment, set new routine of going to bed every night before 1:00 am, set new routine of getting out of bed every morning before 7:30 am. i can already detect incompatibility between several of said objectives...
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